Turkmenistan & Uzbekistan Revealed

Day 1: Tashkent

On arrival in Tashkent you are met and transferred to your hotel. In the evening you meet your tour leader and the other group members for a pre-tour briefing. This is generally followed by an optional group dinner at a local restaurant. The national dish is 'plov', a mixture of rice, vegetables and bits of meat. It is something we are going to see a lot of on our journey! With most of its historic buildings flattened in an earthquake in 1966, the Tashkent we see today is a fine example of Soviet-era architecture and city planning. As the capital of Uzbekistan, this surprisingly green city contains many interesting examples of 1960s architectural styles and enjoys a cosmopolitan mix of cuisines and influences. The ancient heart of the city still beats in the shady squares and vibrant markets of the Old Town. Families still live in communities of courtyards and imams from the small medressas and mosques still call the faithful to prayer.

Day 2: Khiva

This morning sees a very early start as we get up and leave our hotel before dawn and are transferred to the airport. A box breakfast will be given to each of us as we catch a flight at first light to Urgench, where we are met and driven to the fabled city of Khiva. As legend has it, this place has a history that dates back to the time of Shem, son of Noah. A settlement was certainly established here by the 8th century AD and began to flourish in the early 16th century. A colourful procession of conquering khans, Silk Road traders, Great Game spies and Russian invaders has long captured the imagination of writers and poets. It is also a photographer's delight, particularly in the evenings when the sun begins to set. This beautifully-preserved town is perfect for exploring on foot, with impressive walls that mark the boundaries of the old city. Upon entering through its gates we are greeted by towering minarets and numerous medressas. Our guide takes us through many of these monuments including the Kalta Minor Minaret and Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medressa, the 17th century Juma Mosque, the Islom-Hoja Minaret and Medressa (built in 1908 and the highest structure in Khiva), the Kuhna Ark, which was the main fortress, the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum complex (the Persian-style resting place of Khiva's patron saint) and Toza Bog Palace, which between 1893-1913 was the summer palace of Mohammed Rakhim Khan II.

Day 3: Konye-Urgench

Today we cross the border into Turkmenistan and travel the short distance to Konye-Urgench. This modern town is our base for visiting Old Urgench, the 12th century capital of the state of Khorezm and today a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was once one of the great cities on the Silk Road, but was destroyed by Genghis Khan and his hordes and again later by the armies led by Timur, who regarded Urgench as too much of a threat to Samarkand. What we see today is a result of excavations that dates from 1929.

Day 4-5: Darvaza Gas Craters - Ashgabat

We travel on a 4-wheel drive out to the Karakum Desert, which covers most of Turkmenistan. In the middle of the desert half way to the capital, Ashgabat, we stop to visit the Darvaza (Derweze) Gas Craters. Nicknamed the 'Gates of Hell', this bizarre attraction consists of three craters created by gas explosions in the 1950s. One of the craters has been set alight to defuse the natural gas that is emitting from under the ground, but all that has resulted in is a seemingly eternal flame that continues to burn brightly unabated. This creates quite a spectacular scene, especially at night. We spent a night camping out in the desert before continuing south to Ashgabat, stopping en route for lunch in a desert village.

Day 6-7: Ashgabat

Located not far from the border with Iran, Ashgabat is the largest city and the capital of Turkmenistan. With a population of just under a million people, its name literally means 'City of Love' in Persian. It is quite a young city and only dates from the 19th century, when the Russians built a fortress near an old Silk Road village. It contains quite a few elaborate and somewhat garish Soviet-era buildings and monuments. The huge Arch of Neutrality is omnipresent and dominates the middle of town. We visit the National Museum that contains antiquities dating back to the times when the settlement was controlled by Persia and had strong Zoroastrian influences. Tolkuchka Bazaar is huge central Asian market where all sorts of things are all sale. Amidst all the activity and bargaining, we see that the spirit of the old Silk Road trading days certainly continues to live on. We travel 18 kilometres out of town to visit the remnants of the ancient city of Nissa (Nisa), which dates from around 250 BC and was a capital for the Parthian people. We also visit a horse stud specialising in breeding the Akhal-Teke horse that is renowned for its speed, strength and beauty - qualities that makes this breed so highly-prized.

Day 8-9: Mary - Merv

We continue our journey east to Mary (pronounced 'Mar-ree') - a drive that takes about five hours. Mary is an oasis city in the Karakum Desert that dates back to the 1820s. Here we wander through the local Central Bazaar and pay a visit to the Pokrovskaya Church - an impressive Russian Orthodox church that was built in 1900. There is a Russian MiG fighter plane on display nearby. Mary is the base to visit the remains of Merv - once one of the great cities of the Islamic world and reputedly in the 12th century the biggest city in the world. Its other name was Marv-i-shah-jahan', meaning 'Merv - Ruler of the World'. Like many great ancient cities along the Silk Road, it was destroyed by the marauding Mongols, this time by armies led by the sons of Genghis Khan. We explore these interesting and important ruins before returning to Mary, 35 kilometres away.

Day 10-11: Bukhara

We leave Merv and travel to the border at Farab, when we cross into Uzbekistan before making our way to Bukhara. A UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, Bukhara is widely regarded as Central Asia's holiest city. With many monuments dating from the 8th to the 18th century AD, there is a vast span of history and architecture to uncover and the meticulous restoration of many of the mosaic and majolica decorations gives us a true sense of how these buildings looked in their original glory. With more than one hundred officially preserved monuments, there is a lot to see and we have an extensive sightseeing program here spread over a few days to make the most of our time here. We start by enjoying free time to make our own discoveries and absorb its special ambience on our own. Those keen on shopping may wish to wander to the trading domes, which sell an intriguing and colourful array of goods including embroideries, jewellery, spices, handicrafts and all manner of Silk Road treasures. This is certainly the place to test your haggling skills, as well as share a joke or two with friendly local merchants. We start our official sightseeing on Day 11 by visiting the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, resting place of the founder of the Saminid Dynasty, and the Chashma Ayub Mausoleum. The ruins of the Ark Fortress date back to the 5th century AD - it is the ancient heart of the city and the scene of several gruesome events. Opposite the fortress is the Bolo-Khauz Mosque, which dates back to 1718 and was the emirs' official place of worship. We continue to the imposing Poikalon complex (comprising the Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Medressa) and Ulugbek and Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa. We end our day by visiting the Tim Abdulla Khan. Built in 1577, this is one of the most elegant medressas. The twilight hours lend themselves to wandering the areas around the Lyabi-Hauz Pool, a central gathering place you can enjoy a traditional 'chaikhana' (tea-house) style dinner (optional).

Day 12: Bukhara

We start our next day of sightseeing in Bukhara by discovering that all manner of things can be found on sale in the covered bazaars. There are three of these trading domes left and we wander through Taqi-Sarrafon, Taqi-Telpak Furushon and Taqi-Zargaron in search of bargains and experiencing the spirit of trade which has driven this region since the halcyon days of the Silk Road era. In the midst of these bazaars is the Maghoki-Attar, reputed to be the oldest mosque in central Asia. Sitorai Mohi Hosa means Star and Garnet Garden and was the summer palace of the last emir. Its opulence is also reflected by its combination of local and European influences in its designs and furnishings. The halls are richly decorated with carpets and paintings. Char Minar is a unique structure with four minarets – one on each corner. It was built in 1807 by Turkmen merchant, Khalif Niyazkul. Bukhara is truly a magical place and it is sure to cast its spell on us!

Day 13-14: Nurata - Sentab Village - Samarkand

With regret, we leave captivating Bukhara and continue east towards Samarkand. Our next destination is Nurata, formerly known as Nur and founded in the 3rd century BC by Alexander the Great. This ancient town was once regarded as the frontier between the cultivated lands and the steppes, and the ruins of Alexander's hilltop citadel stand testament to its ancient history. The city was also an important Muslim place of pilgrimage, reaching its peak in the 10th century AD as devotees flocked to its many significant graves and memorials. We visit the Chashma, a complex of religious constructions that serves as the central point for such pilgrimages. After lunching in a local teahouse we continue onto the Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve just south of Aiderkul Lake. We must change to smaller vehicles to navigate the narrow local roads as we climb into the mountains to reach the tiny village of Sentab. Here, as part of a UN Development Program project, local families have established small private guesthouses and welcome visitors to their homes. As our hosts are ethnic Tajiks, this is a unique opportunity to hear another regional language, eat delicious home-cooked local specialities, and see the day-to-day life of the village. Accommodation is in the traditional style - the group will sleep on mattresses in communal rooms (usually divided by gender), a similar experience to staying in a yurt. The bathroom facilities are also basic, but manageable - with very simple shower and toilet arrangements. Such things are minor inconveniences, however, as we lounge on 'tapchan' (day beds) under the walnut trees, with the sound of the stream running nearby, and an once-in-a-lifetime cultural exchange unfolds. This is the perfect place to relax, or for those wanting to stretch their legs there are numerous local walking trails nearby which our hosts will be happy to show us. We have more time to relax the following morning. After lunch we depart on our drive to Samarkand.

Day 15: Samarkand

We enjoy a day of sightseeing and exploration in Samarkand, a city that evokes the romance of the Silk Road perhaps more than any other. From its foundation in the 5th century BC, this crossroads of cultures, religions, peoples and languages has been a centre of artisans and traders as well as the prize for many a conquering army. Alexander the Great stormed its walls in 329 BC and many other rulers chose to make it their capital in the centuries that followed. Even the Soviet occupiers declared it the original capital of the Uzbek SSR in 1924, although it only kept that honour for four years! We visit the Gur Amir Mausoleum, the final resting place of the mighty Timur and his sons and grandsons. For a man of his stature, it is quite a simple tomb. One highlight of our trip will certainly be standing on the iconic Registan Square with the three medressas (Ulugbek, Sher Dor and Tilla-Kari) towering over us. We visit a handicraft centre before continuing the exploration of this vibrant city Close to the Registan is the Bibi-Khanym Mosque built by Timur and often compared to the Taj Mahal, as it was built as a grand and timeless symbol of a man's love for his wife. This mosque overlooks the busy and colourful Siob Bazaar, where photographers will delight in taking photos of the many bustling stalls and huge array of produce, as well as encounter friendly greetings from the local traders. Our next stop is the Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum complex. Also known as the 'Town of the Dead' this is a row of more than 20 mausoleums, some of them with stunningly colourful tilework. Ulugbek was an emir in the early 15th century, but he was also a renowned astronomer. The discovery of the ruins of his observatory tells of an amazing story from a bygone era.

Day 16-17: Tashkent

We drive for five hours to return to Tashkent and spend the rest of the day exploring on a city tour. Next to the Old Town and under the green dome of Chorsu Bazaar lies a farmers' market that is one of the largest and oldest in central Asia. It is also a great place to buy Uzbek souvenirs including the ubiquitous skull caps. On a hill behind the bazaar is the 16th century Kulkedash Medressa – an Islamic school that sits beside the 15th century Juma (Friday) Mosque. The History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan gives us a great introduction to the country and the region in general, from the Silk Road era to Soviet times. Amir Timur Square is the main square in town and use to contain a statue of Karl Marx, but he has been replaced by a statue of Uzbekistan's 14th century national hero, Timur, on horse-back. A tour of Tashkent's metro system reveals to us some strikingly beautiful stations, but please note that you are not permitted to take photos in the subway. The Bara-Khon Medressa is the headquarters of the Sunni Muslim religion in the region and has interesting mosaics and Arabic calligraphy that dates back to the late 16th century. We can gather around for an optional farewell dinner to mark the end of our travels together and reflect on all we have seen. The trip ends in Tashkent after breakfast on the morning of Day 18.

Tour Grade: Culture

The greatest cities in the world and the richest historic sights; the finest regional food and the must-see spectacles. Museums and markets, medinas and mosques – from Hobart to Hong Kong, Cairo to Caracas, get under the skin of local life and explore what your destination means to its own people. Dive headlong into exotic metropolitan buzz – the souks of Marrakech, La Paz’s markets – or adventure to remote African hills to explore ancient and mysterious rock art. Take in cutting edge art at Bilbao’s dazzling Guggenheim, or soak up timeless rhythms sitting under a balanzan tree in Mali listening to Tuareg musicians. Whatever it is, wherever you are, there’s no greater adventure than learning how another culture ticks.