Secrets of Central Asia

Day 1: Tashkent

On arrival in Tashkent you are met and transferred to your hotel. In the evening you meet your tour leader and the other group members for a pre-tour briefing. This is generally followed by an optional group dinner at a local restaurant. The national dish is 'plov', a mixture of rice, vegetables and bits of meat. It is something we are going to see a lot of on our journey! With most of its historic buildings flattened in an earthquake in 1966, the Tashkent we see today is a fine example of Soviet-era architecture and city planning. As the capital of Uzbekistan, this surprisingly green city contains many interesting examples of 1960s architectural styles and enjoys a cosmopolitan mix of cuisines and influences. The ancient heart of the city still beats in the shady squares and vibrant markets of the Old Town. Families still live in communities of courtyards and imams from the small medressas and mosques still call the faithful to prayer.

Day 2: Tashkent

We spend a full day exploring charming Tashkent on a city tour. Next to the Old Town and under the green dome of Chorsu Bazaar lies a farmers' market that is one of the largest and oldest in central Asia. It is also a great place to buy Uzbek souvenirs including the ubiquitous skull caps. On a hill behind the bazaar is the 16th century Kulkedash Medressa – an Islamic school that sits beside the 15th century Juma (Friday) Mosque. The History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan gives us a great introduction to the country and the region in general, from the Silk Road era to Soviet times. Amir Timur Square is the main square in town and use to contain a statue of Karl Marx, but he has been replaced by a statue of Uzbekistan's 14th century national hero, Timur, on horse-back. A tour of Tashkent's metro system reveals to us some strikingly beautiful stations, but please note that you are not permitted to take photos in the subway. The Bara-Khon Medressa is the headquarters of the Sunni Muslim religion in the region and has interesting mosaics and Arabic calligraphy that dates back to the late 16th century.

Day 3: Khiva

This morning sees a very early start as we get up and leave our hotel before dawn and are transferred to the airport. A box breakfast will be given to each of us as we catch a flight at first light to Urgench, where we are met and driven to the fabled city of Khiva. As legend has it, this place has a history that dates back to the time of Shem, son of Noah. A settlement was certainly established here by the 8th century AD and began to flourish in the early 16th century. A colourful procession of conquering khans, Silk Road traders, Great Game spies and Russian invaders has long captured the imagination of writers and poets. It is also a photographer's delight, particularly in the evenings when the sun begins to set. This beautifully-preserved town is perfect for exploring on foot, with impressive walls that mark the boundaries of the old city. Upon entering through its gates we are greeted by towering minarets and numerous medressas. Our guide takes us through many of these monuments including the Kalta Minor Minaret and Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medressa, the 17th century Juma Mosque, the Islom-Hoja Minaret and Medressa (built in 1908 and the highest structure in Khiva), the Kuhna Ark, which was the main fortress, the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum complex (the Persian-style resting place of Khiva's patron saint) and Toza Bog Palace, which between 1893-1913 was the summer palace of Mohammed Rakhim Khan II.

Day 4: Khiva - Ayaz Qala

Khiva is enchanting at dawn, with its empty streets and sense of thousands of years of history making an early-morning stroll well worthwhile. We enjoy a free morning to further explore Khiva before embarking on an 80-kilometre journey to Ayaz Qala (Ayaz Kala), northeast of Khiva on the fringes of the Kyzyl-Kum Desert. Ayaz Qala and its sister ruins of Toprak Qala and Qavat Qala are relics of the Khorezm towns that existed here in the Amu-Darya Delta some 2000 years ago. The most impressive of the sites is Toprak Qala, which was settled in the 1st century BC and later flourished in the 3rd century AD as capital of the region. Qavat Qala was a substantial oasis that fell to the brutal treatment of Genghis Khan's marauding troops. To its east lies Ayaz Qala, an impressive mud-walled hilltop fortress from the 6th-7th centuries. We also visit Qoy Qyrylghan Qala, a temple mausoleum of Khorezm Khan dating from the 4th century BC and the site of Uzbekistan's oldest known written inscriptions. Our desert adventure continues this evening as we stay in traditional central Asian yurts and swap our own tales under the stars.

Day 5: Kyzyl Kum - Bukhara

We leave very early today and drive 450 kilometres to Bukhara. Along the way we travel through the Kyzyl-Kum (Red Sands Desert), the largest desert area in central Asia and inhabited by various nomadic people. We also meet the Amu Darya River, which was once known as the Oxus. This river bubbles up far to the south-east in the Pamirs and then runs west through the area now bordering modern Afghanistan - once famous throughout the ancient world for its lapis-lazuli mines. Curling slowly northward the river bisects the Kyzyl-Kum and Kara-Kum (Black Sands Desert), before stretching toward the southern tip of the shrinking Aral Sea. It was the Greeks who named this area 'Transoxiana' – literally 'beyond the river' – a name that echoes through the ages in literature and poetry and also in the imagination of travellers. With the impressive sights of Bukhara and Samarkand ahead of us, this journey is an ideal opportunity to catch up on some reading, or simply sit back and imagine you are a trader - relieved to have made it safely through the desert! We arrive in the holy city of Bukhara and enjoy a free afternoon to absorb its ambience. Trading domes near here still offer an intriguing and colourful array of goods including embroideries, jewellery, spices, handicrafts and all manner of Silk Road treasures. This is the place to test your haggling skills, as well as share a joke or two with friendly local merchants. This is truly a magical place and it is sure to cast its spell on us too!

Day 6: Bukhara

A UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, Bukhara is widely regarded as Central Asia's holiest city. With many monuments dating from the 8th to the 18th century AD, there is a vast span of history and architecture to uncover and the meticulous restoration of many of the mosaic and majolica decorations give us a true sense of how these buildings looked in their original glory. With more than one hundred officially preserved monuments, there is a lot to see and we have an extensive sightseeing program here spread over two days to make the most of our time here. We start by visiting the ruins of the Ark Fortress. Dating back to the 5th century AD, it is the ancient heart of the city and the scene of several gruesome events. Opposite the fortress is the Bolo-Khauz Mosque, which dates back to 1718 and was the emirs' official place of worship. We continue to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, resting place of the founder of the Saminid Dynasty, the Chashma Ayub Mausoleum, the imposing Poikalon complex (comprising the Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Medressa) and Ulugbek and Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa. The twilight hours lend themselves to wandering the areas around the Lyabi-Hauz Pool, a central gathering place you can enjoy a traditional 'chaikhana' (tea-house) style dinner (optional).

Day 7: Bukhara

We start our second full day of sightseeing in Bukhara by visiting the Tim Abdulla Khan. Built in 1577, this is one of the most elegant medressas. All manner of things can be found on sale in the covered bazaars. There are three of these trading domes left and we wander through Taqi-Sarrafon, Taqi-Telpak Furushon and Taqi-Zargaron in search of bargains and experiencing the spirit of trade which has driven this region since the halcyon days of the Silk Road era. In the midst of these bazaars is the Maghoki-Attar, reputed to be the oldest mosque in central Asia. Sitorai Mohi Hosa means Star and Garnet Garden and was the summer palace of the last emir. Its opulence is also reflected by its combination of local and European influences in its designs and furnishings. The halls are richly decorated with carpets and paintings. Char Minar is a unique structure with four minarets – one on each corner. It was built in 1807 by Turkmen merchant, Khalif Niyazkul.

Day 8-9: Nurata - Sentab Village - Samarkand

With regret, we leave captivating Bukhara and continue east towards Samarkand. Our next destination is Nurata, formerly known as Nur and founded in the 3rd century BC by Alexander the Great. This ancient town was once regarded as the frontier between the cultivated lands and the steppes, and the ruins of Alexander's hilltop citadel stand testament to its ancient history. The city was also an important Muslim place of pilgrimage, reaching its peak in the 10th century AD as devotees flocked to its many significant graves and memorials. We visit the Chashma, a complex of religious constructions that serves as the central point for such pilgrimages. After lunching in a local teahouse we continue onto the Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve just south of Aiderkul Lake. We must change to smaller vehicles to navigate the narrow local roads as we climb into the mountains to reach the tiny village of Sentab. Here, as part of a UN Development Program project, local families have established small private guesthouses and welcome visitors to their homes. As our hosts are ethnic Tajiks, this is a unique opportunity to hear another regional language, eat delicious home-cooked local specialities, and see the day-to-day life of the village. Accommodation is in the traditional style - the group will sleep on mattresses in communal rooms (usually divided by gender), a similar experience to staying in a yurt. The bathroom facilities are also basic, but manageable - with very simple shower and toilet arrangements. Such things are minor inconveniences however as we lounge on 'tapchan' (day beds) under the walnut trees, with the sound of the stream running nearby, and an once-in-a-lifetime cultural exchange unfolds. This is the perfect place to relax, or for those wanting to stretch their legs there are numerous local walking trails nearby which our hosts will be happy to show us. We have more time to relax the following morning. After lunch we depart on our drive to Samarkand.

Day 10: Samarkand

We enjoy two days of sightseeing and exploration in Samarkand, a city that evokes the romance of the Silk Road perhaps more than any other. From its foundation in the 5th century BC, this crossroads of cultures, religions, peoples and languages has been a centre of artisans and traders as well as the prize for many a conquering army. Alexander the Great stormed its walls in 329 BC and many other rulers chose to make it their capital in the centuries that followed. Even the Soviet occupiers declared it the original capital of the Uzbek SSR in 1924, although it only kept that honour for four years! We visit the Gur Amir Mausoleum, the final resting place of the mighty Timur and his sons and grandsons. For a man of his stature, it is quite a simple tomb. One highlight of our trip will certainly be standing on the iconic Registan Square with the three medressas (Ulugbek, Sher Dor and Tilla-Kari) towering over us. We complete our tour for the day with a visit to a handicraft centre before enjoying a free afternoon to wander around by ourselves and make our own discoveries in this special place.

Day 11: Samarkand

After breakfast we embark on another half-day sightseeing tour. Close to the Registan is the Bibi-Khanym Mosque built by Timur and often compared to the Taj Mahal, as it was built as a grand and timeless symbol of a man's love for his wife. This mosque overlooks the busy and colourful Siob Bazaar, where photographers will delight in taking photos of the many bustling stalls and huge array of produce, as well as encounter friendly greetings from the local traders. Our next stop is the Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum complex. Also known as the 'Town of the Dead' this is a row of more than 20 mausoleums, some of them with stunningly colourful tilework. Ulugbek was an emir in the early 15th century, but he was also a renowned astronomer. The discovery of the ruins of his observatory tells of an amazing story from a bygone era. This afternoon is left free for us to enjoy just a little more time in Samarkand. Perhaps a visit to the local bazaar where you can sample delicious fresh produce or you might like to return to the many stalls nestled in the Registan Ensemble to find that perfect souvenir.

Day 12-13: Tashkent - Kokand - Fergana

Our adventure continues as we leave Samarkand and drive five hours to return to the capital, Tashkent, where we have an afternoon and an evening free. This is a good chance do some shopping for souvenirs. It is an early start the next day as we head into the Fergana Valley - a fertile bowl fringed by the Tian Shan range to the north and the Pamir Altay mountains to the south. We cross the Kamchik Pass (2267m) to gain a sense of the geography of the region - and begin to understand why the Fergana Valley has always regarded itself as a little cut off from the rest of the country. Arriving in Kokand in time for lunch, we have an afternoon to explore the Khudayar Khan Palace, capital of the Kokand khanate in the 18th and 19th centuries and now home to a fascinating museum of local history. We visit the Khan's Palace (former residence of Khudoyar Khan), the impressive Juma Mosque, the Narbutabey Medressa and the Dasturkhanchi Medressa, which is an Islamic school for females. We then continue to Fergana - the regional capital and our base for two nights.

Day 14: Fergana Valley

Today we enjoy a more relaxed pace as we move between the artisan towns of Fergana, Margilon and Rishton. In Margilon we start our day with a stroll through the bazaar before continuing to a silk production centre – one of the few to still using traditional methods. Here we can see the many processes used to turn the raw silk cocoons into beautiful silk cloth and exquisite tapestries, carpets and embroideries. For many visitors a real highlight is learning how the traditional and distinctive Uzbek cloth ('khanatlas') is made. From Margilon we move to Rishton where after lunch with a local family we visit a pottery centre to learn about the delicate ceramics which the town is famous for. A local master will show us how he crafts each piece by hand before carefully decorating and firing them in a traditional kiln. Be prepared for some shopping today – even the most seasoned travellers will find it hard to resist a purchase! We return to Fergana for the night.

Day 15-16: Sary-Tash - Irkeshtam Pass - Kashgar

Our next country is Kyrgyzstan. Your Uzbek Leader will have a copy of the Kyrgyz group visa which will be given to a group member to assist with formalities, the original being held by your Kyrgyz leader at the meeting point. Your Kyrgyz Leader will collect payment for the visa (please see Visa Information elsewhere in this document) at this point – please have your cash accessible. As the group visa document has many personal details, it is unfortunately not possible for us to provide travellers with an individual copy for privacy reasons. Please DO NOT obtain an individual Kyrgyz visa in advance of travel as this compromises the paperwork for the group. We enter the high mountains of the Pamir-Altay range, climbing to the crossroads of Tadjikistan, Kyrgyzstan and China at Sary Tash. Depending on road conditions and travel times we expect to arrive in the afternoon and there may be time for a short walk from our campground base. A yurt is more sophisticated than a tent, but still relatively basic accommodation. Generally, the group will share 2-3 yurts (usually 5-6 people per yurt), with the yurts allocated as 'couples/singles' yurts, 'male/female' yurts, or according to other wishes of the group. If you have a particular request or concern about the sleeping arrangements, please speak to your Tour Leader. The yurt camps do not have shower facilities, but will have access to water and a private area for washing. The toilets are 'outhouse' style, at a distance from the yurts – please ensure you bring a torch for nighttime visits (head-torches are particularly useful!). The bedding in a yurt consists of layers of mattresses (like thin futons) and layers of blankets/covers that are stacked during the day to give space, then built up for each person at bedtime (the camp staff will usually assist with this). You will usually be sleeping in close proximity to each other, so a pair of earplugs and an eye-mask are well worth packing. The Irkeshtam Pass is one of central Asia's most remote crossings, only opened to foreign visitors in the last few years. The road to the pass is in poor condition and we should be prepared for an hour or so of rough travel; this is why we use such hardy vehicles as the region is so rugged. There are several variables here - dependent on the mood of the border officials we may be able to take our Kyrgyz vehicles across 'no-man's land' or it may be necessary for the group to travel on Chinese vehicles waiting to pick us up to do the crossing. Our tour leader will advise on the day and make any necessary arrangements for the crossing - although the procedure may seem haphazard there is no cause for concern since it is in everyone's interest to ensure safe passage of foreign visitors. Please pay careful attention to the information provided by our tour leader and do not hesitate to ask for clarification if you are unsure about the process. On arrival in China, we are greeted by our Chinese team, complete border formalities (which can take some time!) and then continue to Kashgar. Also known as Kashi, this is considered the 'crown jewel' of the Silk Road. The Irkeshtam Pass is a rugged and challenging crossing, so we must expect the unexpected. Please be prepared for some delays and remember to bring your spririt of adventure - this is likely to be one of the more challenging days of your journey.

Day 17-18: Kashgar

Situated at an altitude of 1289 metres at the end of the spectacular Karakoram Highway from Pakistan, Kashgar is still an important trading centre. It first fell into Chinese hands nearly 1000 years ago when extensions to the Great Wall and explorations along the Silk Road opened the area to trade. When the Han Dynasty collapsed, an interregnum followed until the town was captured briefly for the Tang Dynasty before falling again, this time into Arab hands. The great Genghis Khan occupied the city in 1219, and Marco Polo was reputedly a visitor here in 1265. With the downfall of the Mongols, the town was incorporated into Timur's empire before entering another period of instability, this time lasting 350 years. We enjoy a city tour, including the old town, the Abakh Hoja Tomb and the Id Kah Mosque. The following day we experinece one of the greatest market days in the world - the Kashgar Sunday Market. The colourful Sunday Market sees the town come alive as merchants from near and far bring in their wares. It is a photographer's dream with the endless stream of fascinating faces and varied activities taking place. The Sunday Market is divided into two markets dfrom hte animal market where you will see traders barter for lambs, goats cattle and sometimes even camels. The other market is evrything else under the sun from silk, to exotic foods to musical instruments!

Day 19-20: Torugart Pass - Tash-Rabat Caravan-Sarai

An early start as we head up into the mountains and across the Torugart Pass (3752m). This ancient gateway takes us through some spectacular scenery. The drive takes about 4 hours with the second part on unpaved roads. This is a relatively taxing day, and you should be prepared for some bumpy, windy roads – there is no cause for concern though, our drivers are extremely experienced and will make your safety their priority at all times. Depending on the time of year you travel, there may still be snow as we approach the Pass and it's possible there will be some delays due to poor road conditions after the winter. Please make sure you have a warm jacket to hand – the temperature will drop noticeably in comparison to the desert where Kashgar is situated. A basic packed lunch will provided before you leave Kashgar, but you may wish to prepare some additional snacks and drinks. We reach Chinese customs (at an elevation of approximately 2000m) before heading into non-man's land for a further 70kms. At the next checkpoint we say goodbye to our Chinese hosts as they introduce us to our Kyrgyz team who will escort us through Kyrgyz border formalities. Today we must be patient – as you will see, this is a very remote and unsophisticated border point, and the custom and immigration processes can be tedious. There are no money changing facilities here, but this does not present a problem, as there is nowhere to spend money until we reach the next town and the bank. Once all the paperwork is completed, we continue on to the beautiful 13th century caravansarai at Tash-Rabat. There is plenty of time to relax here with a free day to enjoy trekking in the area or simply enjoy the stunning setting of our yurt camp. Please be aware that the camps are set up and dismantled (in nomadic tradition) according to weather conditions and the progress of the seasons. If there has been an especially long winter, it is possible that the first groups of the year may be accommodated at a lower altitude for comfort, however a stop at Tashrabat to visit the caravanserai will still be included. Whatever time of year you travel, we strongly recommend you pack layers and a lightweight set of thermals to ensure you are comfortable, particularly at night. Our hosts may have small souvenirs for sale, but will accept US dollars or Euros, so it's worth having some small denomination notes prepared for this purpose.

Day 21-22: Son-Kul Lake

After breakfast we drive to Son-Kul Lake, a beautiful spot where many nomadic herders choose to make their summer camp. With gentle pastures set against a backdrop of dramatic mountains, this is the perfect place for an afternoon hike - perhaps dropping in on a local family along the way. We stay for two nights in traditional felt tents (yurts) and sample some traditional dishes from our Kyrgyz hosts. A yurt is more sophisticated than a tent, but still relatively basic accommodation. Generally, the group will share 2-3 yurts (usually 5-6 people per yurt), with the yurts allocated as 'couples/singles' yurts, 'male/female' yurts, or according to other wishes of the group. If you have a particular request or concern about the sleeping arrangements, please speak to your Tour Leader. The yurt camps do not have shower facilities, but will have access to water and a private area for washing. The toilets are 'outhouse' style, at a distance from the yurts – please ensure you bring a torch for nighttime visits (head-torches are particularly useful!). The bedding in a yurt consists of layers of mattresses (like thin futons) and layers of blankets/covers that are stacked during the day to give space, then built up for each person at bedtime (the camp staff will usually assist with this). You will usually be sleeping in close proximity to each other, so a pair of earplugs and an eye-mask are well worth packing. Son-Kul Lake is located off the main roads so we are subject to local conditions – it is unlikely we will be unable to reach the Lake, but should the drivers feel it is unsafe to attempt the pass needed to access the Lake area, we will stay with nomads in an area of equal beauty and interest instead.

Day 23: To Kochkorka

From Son-Kul's pastures we wind our way across country towards the village of Kochkorka. Here we are welcomed by local families who are our genial hosts for the night. By using these homestays we are supporting a community-run initiative, but the pleasure is all ours with fabulous home-cooked meals and a unique insight into everyday life in a Kyrgyz town. The ladies take pride in their hospitality, and you should feel free to tuck into the extensive range of dishes provided – at the very least, you should try to sample all of the delicious jams and preserves on offer! According to Central Asian tradition, guests are to be treated with the greatest respect, given their freedom of the hosts' home, and allowed total privacy – we encourage our host families to interact, but they will appreciate some encouragement! Once the family photos are brought out, it generally doesn't take long for mothers and grandmothers to be swapping notes and admiring pictures. It's not necessary to tip the families (they receive payment for their hosting) but if you wish to give a gift of some kind, try to think of something personalized – a postcard from your home or a photo of you and your family for example. Many of the husbands and sons of the village are working in the cities, or in Russia, to provide an income for their families – this is why you will tend to see only the very youngest and the very eldest of the men-folk around. We also have the opportunity in Kochkorka to observe the Kyrgyz art of felt making. We take in a shydak making show, shyrdak being a richly decorated Kyrgyz carpet. This method of carpet-making comprises ramming and rolling different coloured wool into felt. A traditional method, it is passed onto child from mother and has been around for many hundreds of years, seen with variations in many different parts of Central Asia.

Day 24: Barskoön Gorge - Tamga

A more leisurely day today as we get our first glimpses of turquoise Lake Issy-Kul and explore the Barskoön Gorge on foot. Our day is relaxed and we share a picnic lunch in these idyllic surrounds. We continue this evening to our simple guesthouse at Tamga village on the southern shore. From here it is a short stroll to the local beach, where a spectacular view of mountain peaks and clear blue water awaits. The brave might want to consider a dip in the Lake, but be warned that the locals you'll see swimming are used to the icy temperatures, with glacial streams feeding the Lake from the high mountains we have recently left behind.

Day 25-26: Shores of Lake Issyk-Kul

Over the next two days we follow the shore of this impressive lake - so large it never freezes, hence the name Issyk-Kul - meaning 'hot lake' in the local language. From Tamga via the iconic red sandstone formations of Jeti-Öghüz Canyon to Karakol, where traditional wooden houses are laid out European style. Tonight we stay in a local guesthouse, before continuing the next day along the north shore to Cholpon-Ata, site of ancient petroglyphs – if time permits, we will stop to look, but we do have a lengthy drive to arrive at our final destination tonight at Chong-Kemin. This long valley lies at altitudes of between 1400m and 2800m above sea level and reaches over 80km deep into the mountains between the Kungey Ala-Too and Zailii ranges, parallel to the Kazakh border. It has verdant pastures, woodland (of Tian-Shan firs), mountain lakes (Jamalysh, Kogor, Tor, Almaty and Kichi-Kemin amongst them) and spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. We overnight at a small guesthouse in this beautiful setting.

Day 27-28: Chong-Kemin - Bishkek

After breakfast we start on the road to Bishkek. Along the way we stop at the 11th century Burana Tower, a minaret in the old city of Balasagun. This was the centre of state during the reign of the Karakhanids, once-great feudal rulers of Central Asia. After joining a local family for lunch, we arrive in Bishkek. The following morning we have an introductory city tour to show us the sights of the capital iincluding the National Museum and Gallery. The afternoon is left free for you to shop, explore or simply relax. Bishkek is a small but very pleasant capital, easily explored on foot, or using local taxis. You will also find plenty of internet cafes, something rarely found in the countryside. It is a good idea to advise friends and family that you will be out of contact between Kashgar and Bishkek so they are not concerned if they don't hear from you for a few days.

Day 29-30: Tashkent

We fly from Bishkek to the Uzbek capital, Tashkent, this morning. Having met our Uzbek Tour Leader at the airport, we make the short journey to our hotel, and the rest of the day is free. In this cosmopolitan city there is a plentiful choice of restaurants and activities for a final evening's entertainment. Our journey ends on Day 30 after breakfast.