South East Asian Odyssey

Day 1: Bangkok

Your trip starts today with your arrival in Bangkok. No activities are planned until your evening group meeting, so you may arrive at any time. Please check the noticeboard in the hotel lobby, located on the ground floor, for a notice containing details of your tour. This will advise you of your tour leader’s name, telephone number and the time and location of your group meeting. Normally this meeting takes place around 6pm. Until your meeting we encourage you to get out and discover the delights that Bangkok has to offer, including Thailand’s famous cuisine. Make sure that you take a hotel business card so that you will be able to find your way back to the hotel.

Day 2: Bangkok

Bangkok is home to some of Asia’s most elaborately adorned temples - and the modern city’s sights and attractions are so numerous you won’t know where to begin. So we’ll give you a helping hand and introduce you to some of Bangkok’s most famous sights, including a visit to the impressive Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha. Near our hotel we jump on board a klong (or local canal) boat, before catching a public bus to Wat Po. This is a great way to introduce you to a couple of the more popular forms of local transport. The remainder of the day is free for us to further explore this vibrant city, and the new, elevated Skytrain service now makes it easier than ever to get around the city centre, by avoiding the nasty traffic snarls in the streets below. In the evening we board the overnight sleeper train to Chiang Mai (approximately 13 hours).

Day 3: Chiang Mai

We arrive in Chiang Mai early in the morning (as long as our train is on time!) and transfer to our centrally located guesthouse by local songthaew. The day is free to do as you wish, as there is much to see in this northern city, with over 120 temples in the centre alone. A visit to the Tribal Research Institute provides excellent background information on the cultures and customs of the various ethnic groups that inhabit the hill regions of northern and western Thailand and Laos. An excursion to the top of Doi Suthep offers fantastic views over the city and can be combined with a visit to the museum. It’s best to visit Doi Suthep in the morning or late in the afternoon, to avoid the heat of the day, as there are over 300 steps to climb! You may also wish to get a traditional Thai massage before your trek, or even partake in a cooking class, beware you eat what you cook. Your tour leader will be able to offer other suggestions for things to see and do your free time. This evening the Night Bazaar beckons, a shoppers paradise it is a great chance to practice your bargaining skills.

Day 4: Huay Xai

In the morning, we travel by local bus through the picturesque countryside to Chiang Rai (approximately 3 ½ hours), where we stop for lunch before boarding our next local bus (fan-cooled) for Chiang Khong (approximately 2 ½ hours). After completing border formalities, we take a small boat across the Mekong River to Huay Xai, our first stop in Laos. For centuries Huay Xai was a disembarkation point for Yunnanese caravans, led by the Chinese Muslims on their way to Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai, in ancient Siam. Today, Huay Xai is a hustling ferry town on the banks of the Mekong River. There’s time to wander around this small place and perhaps ascend the Naga stairs to Wat Jom Khao Manilat, a fascinating temple overlooking the river and town. There is also the opportunity in your free time to visit a nearby minority village, where they make rice whiskey, noodles and handicrafts.

Day 5: Pakbeng

After breakfast we transfer to the boat pier where we board our slow boat for the trip down the Mekong River. The pace is very relaxed - a perfect way to observe the local lifestyle close up. We arrive in the late afternoon at Pakbeng; a colourful village situated at the junction of the Mekong River and the smaller Beng River, hence the town’s name ‘Pak’ meaning ‘mouth’ in Lao. Hmong and tribal Thais are frequently seen on the main street of Pakbeng, and small vendors along the street sell local textiles and handicrafts. We spend the night in a simple hostel. Please be warned that the accommodation standard is very basic, but also bear in mind that you are travelling in a remote area. Please have an open mind and come with an adventurous spirit!

Day 6-8: Luang Prabang

We continue on our private slow boat and stop to stretch our legs and explore the amazing Pak Ou Caves, which contain hundreds of Buddha statues, before arriving in Luang Prabang in the evening. We have time here to wander the streets and discover this beautiful town, with its gleaming temple roofs, fading French architecture and stunning mountain backdrop. Luang Prabang has been claimed by UNESCO to be ‘the best preserved city in South East Asia’. A highlight of our three -night stay is a visit to the beautiful Kuang Si Falls. We will trek to the waterfalls (approximately 3 hours), this is a great opportunity to stretch the legs after two days on a boat and gives you a chance at some physical activity.

Day 9-10: Vang Vieng

On Sunday morning we transfer to a local fan cooled bus and make our way to the village of Vang Vieng, located on a beautiful bend in the Nam Song River (approximately 6-7 hours). During our stay we cross the river to explore the huge caves that line the West Bank. These caves are riddled with unexplored tunnels and caverns, and there is plenty of time to make our own discoveries or partake in a day-trip kayaking (additional cost) along the Nam Song.

Day 11-12: Vientiane

Travelling south by local fan cooled bus we continue to the Lao capital, located on the banks of the Mekong River (approximately 4 hours). Vientiane was originally one of the early Lao valley fiefdoms that were consolidated around the time that Europe was leaving the Dark Ages. Despite early prosperity, Vientiane lost its independence at various times during its history to Vietnamese, Burmese, Siamese and Khmers forces. When Laos became a French protectorate in the late 19th Century, Vientiane was named as its capital. It remains so today, under communist rule. The curious mix of Lao, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Soviet, French and US influences result in a somewhat exotic atmosphere. This small and laid-back capital is easily explored by bicycle or on foot. A walking orientation tour takes us to the oldest remaining temple in Vientiane, Wat Si Saket, which was constructed in 1818. During free time, you can further explore Vientiane’s other historical sites, including Haw Pha Kaew, the former royal temple of the Lao monarchy and home to some of the best examples of Buddhist sculptures to be found in Laos.

Day 13: Lak Sao

We experience stunning mountain scenery, as we travel by private bus to the town of Lak Sao, situated on the border with Vietnam. Be warned! Today we will be travelling some of the most remote country you will see in Laos, where conditions will be basic, but the day will be richly rewarding with opportunities to stop and take in the spectacular scenery including a Stone Forest (drive approximately 6-7 hours).

Day 14: Vinh

Crossing the border into Vietnam we head for the port city of Vinh, birthplace of Ho Chi Minh. Following the wars with the French and the Americans, Vinh city was so heavily bombed it was left with only two buildings intact! It has since been rebuilt with the help of former Eastern Block nations and today boasts a population of 500,000 people. Here we board the Reunification Express sleeper train for the 300-kilometre train journey to Hanoi. N.B: This is a local train and would be considered basic.

Day 15-17: Hanoi

Although there has been a permanent settlement here since the 3rd Century AD, the city of Hanoi can trace its origins back to 1010 B.C., when Emperor Le Thai To moved his capital from Hoa Lu to this site. From the 1880s to World War II, Hanoi was developed as the colonial capital of French Indochina and many of the old structures in the city were razed to make way for new French buildings. Today, the people of Hanoi take a lot of pride in their grand old colonial buildings which, together with the wide spacious boulevards and tree-lined lakes, help make Hanoi one of most graceful and charming cities in South East Asia. On Sunday, you may like to organise a visit to Halong Bay. Your tour leader will be able to help you arrange this tour. Sunday night there will be other travellers joining your group for the journey from Hanoi onwards. Monday, we take a half-day walking tour of the city, showcasing some of Hanoi’s most interesting attractions. We begin by visiting the One Pillar Pagoda near the dour, Soviet-inspired mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. (Please note that the mausoleum is closed on Mondays, so you will need to have visited it Sunday morning if you wish to see Uncle Ho lying in state. Also please be warned that opening times are also very limited and it is closed for up to three months a year.) One Pillar Pagoda was first constructed in 1049 and as such it is Hanoi’s oldest structure. If it doesn’t look that old to you, it’s because the French blew it up in 1954 as a parting gesture, and the current structure is a replica. From here we’ll walk to the Temple of Literature, a wonderful name for a wonderful place. Founded in 1070, it was Vietnam’s first educational institute and a place where candidates for the position of Mandarin were examined. Finally we’ll visit the Hoa Lo Prison, probably better known to most of us as the ‘Hanoi Hilton’. Hanoi’s tallest building now occupies most of the original site, and no, it doesn’t belong to the Hilton Hotel chain, but the eastern wall and a small section of the prison behind have been retained and today serve as a museum. It mostly serves as a reminder of the Vietnamese who were incarcerated here by their French masters. The remainder of the afternoon is free for us to wander around town and check out the lifestyles of Hanoi’s people. One of the best places to do this is the city’s Old Quarter, situated to the north of the lake. It’s a great place, (and an easy place) to get lost in for a couple of hours. However it’s easy to find our bearings if we remember that its boundaries are the railway line to the west and the north, the Red River to the east and Hoan Kiem Lake to the south. This evening we board the Reunification Express for our overnight train journey down to Hue. This is a local train and conditions on board are generally quite basic. Also, breakfast tomorrow is not always available on the train, so it is recommended that you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Hanoi.

Day 18: Hue

We reach Hue in the early morning. During the reign of the Nguyen emperors, Hue served as Vietnam’s capital from 1801 to 1945. Dripping with history, and often with rain, it has a certain serene and classic character that sets it apart from all other provincial centres. After disembarking from the train, we’ll take a short spell to refresh in our hotel rooms before mounting our local ‘shopping’ bikes, as they’re known here, and cycling down to the riverside. Here, we’ll place the bikes on board our ‘Dragon Boat’, and enjoy a leisurely cruise up the timeless Perfume River to visit the Thien Mu pagoda, one of the oldest and most significant pagodas in Hue, the religious capital of Vietnam. You have the choice of cycling back into town from here, approximately 8kms, or staying on the boat to head back down river to the Citadel. We can spend a couple of hours exploring Hue’s massive walled citadel and the Forbidden Purple Palace enclosed within. The palace’s splendid ‘Ngo Mon’ gate gives little hint of the wholesale destruction that has taken place inside at the hands of various occupying forces. The bloody ‘Battle of Hue’ during the 1968 Tet offensive all but finished it off but skilled Vietnamese craftsmen, with the help of UNESCO and other non-government organisations are hard at work restoring and rebuilding what remains. Sadly it can never be returned to its former glory, but it’s still a fascinating insight into Imperial Vietnam. The bikes are ours for the remainder of the day, and you may choose to cycle out to one of the Royal tombs such as the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc (1847-1883), one of the best remaining examples of its kind. Constructed between 1864 and 1867, it was more of a pleasure garden than a tomb and the Emperor used it as his second residence. Tickets to enter cost about 60,000VND. Alternatively today, your tour leader may opt to arrange a motorcycle tour of the sights in Hue and some surrounding villages. This option will be discussed with the group in Hue.

Day 19-21: Hoi An - Nha Trang

On Wednesday we have an enjoyable four-hour drive to Hoi An in the afternoon, through a region of Vietnam that’s blessed with magnificent rural and coastal scenery. Shortly after passing through pretty Lang Co Beach, Highway 1 begins its winding ascent through Hai Van Pass or, ‘Pass of the Ocean Clouds’. On the other side we drive through the busy streets of Danang and pass by the massive former US airbase that was, in 1968, the busiest airport in the world with all manner of aircraft coming and going in support of South Vietnam’s war effort. The ancient and historic town of Hoi An was for three centuries one of the most important ports in Central Vietnam, visited by sailing ships from all over the world seeking trade in silk, ceramics, spice etc. In the late 19th Century, the Tu Bon River, linking the port to the open sea, began to silt up and became unnavigable to large vessels. Trade moved up the coast to Tourane, now modern day Danang, and Hoi An went back to being a sleepy little fishing and rice farming community. Today however, Hoi An’s fortunes are once again riding on the crest of the wave as Vietnam’s number one tourist destination. This is largely due to the fact that the old town’s narrow streets are packed with a brilliant blend of Chinese, Portuguese and Japanese styles of architecture that has changed little from what it must have been like during its heydays as a major port of trade. We include a tour of the Old Town, where you can visit an ancient house, a Chinese Assembly Hall, the Japanese Covered Bridge and a museum. In your free time afterwards we can rent bicycles and set off to explore the surrounding countryside, take a boat trip on the river, relax on the nearby beach, enjoy the wonderful cuisine on offer at some of the town’s numerous cheap cafes or have some clothes made up. Hoi An has nearly 100 Silk Shops offering same-day service for tailor-made clothes at unbelievably low prices. If you’d like to venture further a field, it’s only a short trip up the road to Vietnam’s world famous China Beach and the adjacent Marble Mountains. If you’d like to learn more about the Kingdom of Champa, the ancient ruins at My Son can be visited inside half a day. Here you can see more than 70 monuments spread over a large area. ‘Spread’ being the operative word, after the French meticulously began restoring the site, the Americans came along and blew it to bits. However, if only for its beautiful setting, it’s still worth a visit and our tour leader can help you to arrange transport if you would like to see it. Depending on the train schedule, we plan to leave Hoi An on Friday mid-morning and drive back into Danang then take the day train from here to Nha Trang. (N.B: Vietnam Railways often change the departure time of this local train so it may operate as an overnight sleeper instead. Either way, the conditions on board are generally quite basic. Be prepared for this and don’t forget your spirit of adventure!! Also, breakfast tomorrow is not always available on the train so it is recommended that you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Danang).

Day 22-23: Nha Trang Island Cruise

With fabulous sunny weather for most of the year, crystal clear blue waters surrounding a string of offshore islands and a beach that spans the whole length of the city, it’s little wonder that Nha Trang has become Vietnam’s premier beach resort. Although the town itself is a bit ‘light-on’ for tourist attractions, a steady increase in tourism has brought with it a much-needed boost in facilities and the city’s diverse range of quality restaurants is second to none in Vietnam. We’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the sun during our two full days in Nha Trang, and we’ll head out onto the water for the day to cruise around the islands. Bring your towel and swimmers because there’s a stack of time for swimming and snorkelling. At lunchtime our crew will serve up a sumptuous feast of freshly caught seafood and other delights for non-fish eaters. On Sunday evening, we board the Reunification Express for the final time and make our overnight journey to Saigon. (N.B: This is also a local train and conditions on board are generally quite basic. Again, breakfast is not always available on the train so we recommended you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Nha Trang).

Day 24: Saigon

We wake to the sounds of frenzied activity this morning as our train rolls to a halt at Saigon railway station. Officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City after reunification in 1975, most people here still prefer to use the old name, Saigon, and they don’t seem to mind if we do as well. Once referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Orient’, Saigon, with its population unofficially nearing 8 million is Vietnam’s largest city. As a city that stands in stark contrast to Hanoi, it lacks the charm of its northern cousin but still has a certain laid-back tropical ambience that makes it a distinctly South East Asian city. Our hotel is centrally located and convenient to all of the city’s best restaurants, bars, nightclubs and most interesting sights. Reunification Palace, the War Remnants Museum, Ben Thanh Market, Notre Dame Cathedral and the adjacent Gustav Eiffel designed Central Post Office are all within walking distance of each other. But to make the most of your time, you might like to consider hiring a ‘cyclo’ (bicycle rickshaw) for touring the city sights. You’ll find cyclo drivers right outside our hotel and the going rate is approximately 80,000 VND per hour. Make sure you negotiate a rate before setting out.

Day 25-26: Saigon - Cu Chi Tunnels

You may wish to take a spare shirt with you this morning because we’re literally going to ‘get down and get dirty’. Our excursion to the north of Saigon would have been considered risky business indeed 30 odd years ago but today the peaceful farming communities around the former Viet Cong stronghold of Cu Chi Tunnels belie the horrors of the Vietnam War. Begun by the Viet Minh and later expanded by the Viet Cong, Cu Chi’s tunnels were constructed to conduct covert operations and then quickly hide from the enemy. There are reputed to be around 200 kilometres of underground tunnels within the area and in some places they even managed to penetrate the perimeters of nearby US military bases. We’ll actually be given the opportunity of crawling through a section of the tunnels while we’re here, and learn how the brave men and women of Cu Chi built underground hospitals, kitchens and meeting rooms during their struggle for a unified Vietnam. Early afternoon we return to Saigon where you are free to spend your remaining time exploring some of the city’s attractions. Your Vietnam tour finishes after breakfast on Wednesday morning.

Tour Grade: Walking

Maybe you’re after a ramble through Morocco’s Dades Gorge, or a stroll in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands. Or perhaps something more energetic, a hike in South Africa’s spectacular Drakensberg Mountains or along a stretch of China’s Great Wall. Whatever you want, the same principles apply: keep it simple, and slow it down. Stretching the legs is a great way to discover somewhere, whether a city’s downtown or remote countryside. You quickly get into the feel for how life’s lived, the local rhythm of where you’re travelling. And there’s no better way of meeting locals – take a walk through African plains or South American valleys and you’ll soon be trying to hurdle language barriers with friendly villagers and farmers.