Indochina Discoverer

Day 1: Hanoi

Your trip starts today with your arrival in Hanoi. No activities are planned until your evening group meeting, so you may arrive at any time. Please check the noticeboard in the hotel lobby, located on the ground floor, for a notice containing details of your tour. This will advise you of your tour leader’s name, telephone number and the time and location of your group meeting. Normally this meeting takes place around 6pm. Until your meeting we encourage you to get out and discover the delights that Vietnam has to offer. Make sure that you take a hotel business card so that you will be able to find your way back to the hotel.

Day 2: Hanoi

Although there has been a settlement here since the 3rd century AD, the city of Hanoi can trace its origins back to 1010 when Emperor Le Thai To moved his capital from Hoa Lu to this site. From the 1880s to World War II, Hanoi was developed as the French colonial capital of French Indochina and many of the old structures in Hanoi were razed to make way for new French buildings. Today’s Hanoi people take a lot of pride in their grand old colonial buildings and these together with the wide spacious boulevards and tree-lined lakes help make Hanoi one of most graceful and charming cities in South East Asia. After breakfast, we’ll take a half-day walking tour of the city, showcasing some of Hanoi’s most interesting attractions. We’ll begin by visiting the One Pillar Pagoda near the dour, Soviet-inspired mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. (Please note that the mausoleum is closed on Mondays, so you will need to have visited it yesterday morning (Sunday) if you wish to see Uncle Ho lying in state. Also please be warned that opening times are also very limited and it is closed for up to three months a year.) The One Pillar Pagoda was first constructed in 1049 and as such it was Hanoi’s oldest structure. If it doesn’t look that old to you, it’s because the French blew it up in 1954 as a parting gesture and the current edifice is a replica of the original. From here we’ll walk to the Temple of Literature, a wonderful name for a wonderful place. Founded in 1070, it was Vietnam’s first educational institute and a place where candidates for the position of Mandarin were examined. Finally we’ll visit the Hoa Lo Prison, probably better known to most of us as the ‘Hanoi Hilton’. Hanoi’s tallest building now occupies most of the original site, and no, it doesn’t belong to the Hilton Hotel chain, but the eastern wall and a small section of the prison behind have been retained and today serve as a museum. It mostly serves as a reminder of the Vietnamese who were incarcerated here by their French masters. The remainder of the afternoon is free for us to wander around town and check out the lifestyles of Hanoi’s people. One of the best places to do this is the city’s Old Quarter’, situated to the north of the lake. It’s a great place (and an easy place) to get lost in for a couple of hours. However, it’s easy to find our bearings if we remember that its boundaries are the railway line to the west and the north, the Red River to the east and Hoan Kiem Lake to the south. This evening we board the Reunification Express for our overnight train journey down to Hue. (N.B: This is a local train and conditions on board are generally quite basic. Also, breakfast tomorrow is not always available on the train, so it is recommended that you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Hanoi.)

Day 3: Hue

We reach Hue in the early morning. During the reign of the Nguyen emperors, Hue served as Vietnam’s capital from 1801 to 1945. Dripping with history, and often with rain, it has a certain serene and classic character that sets it apart from all other provincial centres. After disembarking from the train, we’ll take a short spell to refresh in our hotel rooms before mounting our local ‘shopping’ bikes, as they’re known here, and cycling down to the riverside. Here, we’ll place the bikes on board our ‘Dragon Boat’, and enjoy a leisurely cruise up the timeless Perfume River to visit the Thien Mu pagoda, one of the oldest and most significant pagodas in Hue, the religious capital of Vietnam. You have the choice of cycling back into town from here, approximately 8kms, or staying on the boat to head back down river to the Citadel. We can spend a couple of hours exploring Hue’s massive walled citadel and the Forbidden Purple Palace enclosed within. The palace’s splendid ‘Ngo Mon’ gate gives little hint of the wholesale destruction that has taken place inside at the hands of various occupying forces. The bloody ‘Battle of Hue’ during the 1968 Tet offensive all but finished it off but skilled Vietnamese craftsmen, with the help of UNESCO and other non-government organisations are hard at work restoring and rebuilding what remains. Sadly it can never be returned to its former glory, but it’s still a fascinating insight into Imperial Vietnam. The bikes are ours for the remainder of the day, and you may choose to cycle out to one of the Royal tombs such as the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc (1847-1883), one of the best remaining examples of its kind. Constructed between 1864 and 1867, it was more of a pleasure garden than a tomb and the Emperor used it as his second residence. Tickets to enter cost about 60,000VND. Alternatively today, your tour leader may opt to arrange a motorcycle tour of the sights in Hue and some surrounding villages. This option will be discussed with the group in Hue.

Day 4-6: Hoi An - Nha Trang

On Day 4, the morning is at leisure, then we have an enjoyable four-hour drive to Hoi An in the afternoon, through a region of Vietnam that’s blessed with magnificent rural and coastal scenery. Shortly after passing through pretty Lang Co Beach, Highway One begins its winding ascent through Hai Van Pass or, ‘Pass of the Ocean Clouds’. On the other side we drive through the busy streets of Danang and pass by the massive former US airbase that was, in 1968, the busiest airport in the world with all manner of aircraft coming and going in support of South Vietnam’s war effort. The ancient and historic town of Hoi An was for three centuries one of the most important ports in Central Vietnam, visited by sailing ships from all over the world seeking trade in silk, ceramics, spice and the like. In the late 19th Century, the Tu Bon River, linking the port to the open sea, began to silt up and became unnavigable to large vessels. Trade moved up the coast to Tourane, now modern day Danang, and Hoi An went back to being a sleepy little fishing and rice farming community. Today however, Hoi An’s fortunes are once again riding on the crest of the wave as Vietnam’s No. 1 tourist destination. This is largely due to the fact that the old town’s narrow streets are packed with a brilliant blend of Chinese, Portuguese, and Japanese style of architecture that has changed little from what it must have been like during its heyday as a major port of trade. After a walking tour of Hoi An, we get to enjoy free time because there’s such a broad choice of things to see and do, and they can all be discovered and experienced without difficulty. We can rent bicycles and set off to explore the surrounding countryside, take a boat trip on the river, relax on the nearby beach, enjoy the wonderful cuisine on offer at some of the town’s numerous cheap cafes or have some clothes made up. Hoi An has nearly 100 ‘silk shops’ offering same-day service for tailor-made clothes at unbelievably low prices. If you’d like to venture further a field, it’s only a short trip up the road to Vietnam’s world famous ‘China Beach’ and the adjacent Marble Mountains. If you’d like to learn more about the Kingdom of Champa, the ancient ruins at My Son can be visited inside half a day. Here you can see more than 70 monuments spread over a large area. ‘Spread’ being the operative word, after the French meticulously began restoring the site, the Americans came along and blew it to bits. However, if only for its beautiful setting, it’s still worth a visit and our tour leader can help you to arrange transport if you would like to see it. Depending on the train schedule, we plan to leave Hoi An on Friday mid-morning and drive back into Danang to then take the day train from here to Nha Trang. (N.B: Vietnam Railways often changes the departure time of this local train, so it may operate as an overnight sleeper instead. Either way, the conditions on board are generally quite basic. Be prepared for this and don’t forget your spirit of adventure!! Also, breakfast is not always included on the train so it is recommended that you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Danang).

Day 7-8: Nha Trang - Island Cruise

With fabulous sunny weather for most of the year, crystal-clear blue waters surrounding a string of offshore islands and a beach that spans the whole length of the city, it’s little wonder that Nha Trang has become Vietnam’s premier beach resort. Although the town itself is a bit ‘light-on’ for tourist attractions, a steady increase in tourism has brought with it a much-needed boost in facilities and the city’s diverse range of quality restaurants is second to none in Vietnam. We’ll have plenty of time to worship the sun during our two full days in Nha Trang, and we’ll head out onto the water for the day to cruise around the islands. Bring your towel and swimmers because there’s a stack of time for swimming and snorkelling. At lunchtime our crew will serve up a sumptuous feast of freshly caught seafood and other delights for non-fish eaters. On Sunday evening, we board the Reunification Express for the final time and make our overnight journey to Saigon.

Day 9: Saigon

We wake to the sounds of frenzied activity this morning as our train rolls to a halt at Saigon railway station. Officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City after reunification in 1975, most people still prefer to use the old name Saigon, and they don’t seem to mind if we do as well. Once referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Orient’, Saigon, with its unofficial population nearing 8 million, is Vietnam’s largest city. As a city that stands in stark contrast to Hanoi, it lacks the charm of its northern cousin but still has a certain laid-back tropical ambience that makes it a distinctly South East Asian city. Our hotel is centrally located and convenient to all of the city’s best restaurants, bars, nightclubs and most interesting sights. But to make the most of your time, you might like to consider hiring a ‘cyclo’ (bicycle rickshaw). You’ll find cyclo drivers right outside our hotel and the going rate is 80,000 VND per hour. As with the airport taxi, make sure you negotiate a rate before setting out!

Day 10: Saigon

We start the day with a walking orientation tour of Saigon to visit the Reunification Palace, War Remnants museum, Notre Dame Cathedral and to admire the many beautiful French colonial buildings such as the main post office and the former Hotel de Ville (city hall). Our last afternoon in Vietnam is free to further explore Saigon. Spend time shopping in the city’s main business district or take a fascinating cyclo ride through the busy city streets to Saigon’s Chinatown district, Cholon.

Day 11: Cu Chi tunnels - Phnom Penh

Our trip to the north of Saigon would have been considered risky business indeed 30 odd years ago, but today the peaceful farming communities around the former VC stronghold of Cu Chi Tunnels belie the horrors that took place here during the Vietnam War. Begun by the Viet Minh and later expanded by the Viet Cong, Cu Chi’s tunnels were constructed to conduct covert operations and then quickly hide from the enemy. We’ll actually be given the opportunity of crawling through a section of the tunnels while we’re here, and learn how the brave men and women of Cu Chi built underground hospitals, kitchens and meeting rooms during their struggle for a unified Vietnam. We explore the amazing tunnel network before heading across the border into neighbouring Cambodia and onto the capital, Phnom Penh. Along the way, we pass the place where the young girl, Kim Phuc, was tragically burned with Napalm during the Vietnam/American war. You may be aware of the novel about her life story, “The Girl in the Picture”. Once we reach the border, we say farewell to our Vietnamese tour leader and cross over to pick up our new Cambodian leader. After crossing the Mekong River we drive on to Phnom Penh, arriving late afternoon. In the 1950s and 1960s, Phnom Penh was one of the finest cities in South East Asia. Despite the wide-scale destruction that took place after the Khmer Rouge emptied the city in 1975, Phnom Penh still manages to exude some colonial charm from a bygone era. Particularly down on the palm-fringed riverfront where a number of French-era shops and villas still exist and the spires of the Royal Palace pierce the skyline. Shortly before dinner this evening, your tour leader will hold a brief group meeting to outline the tour programme over the next five days.

Day 12: Phnom Penh

This morning we travel by cyclo for a sightseeing tour of Phnom Penh to include the Royal Palace and the infamous Tuol Sleng Prison. Also known as Security Prison 21 (S21), Tuol Sleng is a former high school that was transformed into a detention and interrogation centre. An estimated 14,000 to 20,000 Cambodians accused of being traitors were tortured to death or sent to their execution from here. We then join our bus to visit another reminder of the Khmer Rouge atrocities. Just as horrifying, the Choeung Ek killing fields are situated 15 kilometres southwest of Phnom Penh and an estimated 17,000 people met their death at the hands of the Khmer Rouge here, most clubbed to death to save ammunition. A stupa-like tower of skulls was erected here in 1988 as a reminder of the atrocities that took place. After this sobering morning we visit the Central Market. Located in an old French colonial building, it’s a good place to look for clothing or sarongs before having the rest of the day exploring Phnom Penh city by ourselves. There’s plenty to see including the Silver Pagoda, the temple of Wat Phnom, the National Museum and the French Quarter.

Day 13: Phnom Penh - Siem Reap

We leave Phnom Penh this morning by private bus and make our way to Siem Reap. We follow the Tônlé Sap River passing through fishing villages before crossing over the river and travelling through farming communities. The Tônlé Sap River flows into the shallow Tônlé Sap Lake, the largest of South East Asia’s lakes. Numerous streams feed the lake and it then drains by the Tônlé Sap River west to the Mekong River. During the wet monsoon season of June to November, the high waters of the Mekong River reverse the flow of the Tônlé Sap River and increase the size of the lake from about 2,600 to 10,400 square kilometres. As it begins to recede again, the lake’s huge stocks of fish are easily trapped in nets and bamboo traps or simply caught in the branches of trees. Late this afternoon we catch our first glimpse of what we’ve come here for when we drive out to the magnificent Angkor temple complex to watch the sunset from Phnom Bakheng.

Day 14: Siem Reap (Angkor)

The magnificent Angkor complex of temples is without doubt one of the most astounding archaeological sites in the world. Scattered over an area of 200 square kilometres, only Egypt’s Nile Valley can compare to this vast array of ancient monuments. The ancient city of Angkor served as the royal centre from which a dynasty of Khmer kings ruled one of the largest, most prosperous and sophisticated kingdoms in the history of South East Asia. With a history covering over 600 years from 802AD to 1432AD, at the height of their power the kings of Angkor ruled over a territory that extended from the tip of the Indochinese peninsula, northward to Yunnan and from Vietnam, westward to the Bay of Bengal. Our local tour leader will take us on an informative day-long tour of the Angkor complex, visiting the South Gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon, Elephant Terrace, Baphoun, the Royal Enclosure, Phimeanakas, Terrace of the Leper King, Ta Prohm and, of course, fabulous Angkor Wat. Bring plenty of film – you’ll need it! At the end of the day, we return to our hotel in Siem Reap.

Day 15: Siem Reap

Today has been set aside to allow us to do some exploring on our own. We have the option this morning of visiting the rose-coloured Banteay Srei Temple or returning to Angkor to wander through the ruins at leisure. Banteay Srei is located about 30 kilometres north of Siem Reap over a very rough and dusty road and is considered to be the best preserved of all of Cambodia’s temples. But if you are feeling a bit ‘templed-out’ you might like to consider hiring a local guide and going out into the countryside to discover facets of rural life that have changed little since the kings of Angkor ruled over the land. A local guide won’t cost you much and he or she will take you around the villages and explain local industries and the peoples’ way of life. Ask your tour leader to help to arrange any of the above optional tours. Siem Reap has its own interests and an enjoyable afternoon can be spent wandering around the town, visiting its market, shops and restaurants. You may wish to have a therapeutic massage by the local blind association – a great way to relax after a day or two of exploring!

Day 16: Siem Reap to Bangkok

Just when you thought it was time to relax, we sling our packs (and ourselves) into local mini-vans for an adventurous, and bumpy, four-hour road journey to the Cambodian/Thai border town of Poipet. After we’ve made the crossing and shaken off the dust, we continue on to the Thai border town of Aranya Prathet and stop for lunch. The final leg of our overland journey is made in the relative comfort of our private bus to Bangkok. The drive from Aranya Prathet to Bangkok should take us no more than 4-5 hours.

Day 17-18: Bangkok

Bangkok is home to some of Asia’s most elaborately adorned temples and the modern city’s sights and attractions are so numerous you won’t know where to begin. So we’ll give you a helping hand and introduce you to some of Bangkok’s most famous sights on a short walking tour, including a visit to the impressive Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha. The remainder of the day is free for us to further explore this vibrant city and the new, elevated Skytrain service now makes it easier than ever to get around the city centre by avoiding the nasty traffic snarls in the streets below. Needless to say, Bangkok is a great place to shop for bargains and the city has a mind-boggling array of exotic restaurants and nightclubs for you to relax in and reflect on your journey. Your tour ends after breakfast on Wednesday morning.

Tour Grade: Walking

Maybe you’re after a ramble through Morocco’s Dades Gorge, or a stroll in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands. Or perhaps something more energetic, a hike in South Africa’s spectacular Drakensberg Mountains or along a stretch of China’s Great Wall. Whatever you want, the same principles apply: keep it simple, and slow it down. Stretching the legs is a great way to discover somewhere, whether a city’s downtown or remote countryside. You quickly get into the feel for how life’s lived, the local rhythm of where you’re travelling. And there’s no better way of meeting locals – take a walk through African plains or South American valleys and you’ll soon be trying to hurdle language barriers with friendly villagers and farmers.